Beach profiles and their relation to waves and grain size at the southern tip of the peninsula of Baja California, México

Abstract

We discuss the influence of processes that affect the beach profile, like wave condition, grain size characteristics and morphology. This work examines the relation between 8 beach profiles at the tip of the Peninsula of Baja California, between Cabo San Lucas and Punta Gorda. Here the continental shelf is narrow and steep (1 °). The dominant northwesterly winds direct the vector wave force toward the southeast with a wave power of 304 m.kg/sec (2217 ft.lbs/sec). In general, the profiles show a non-equilibrium condition as observed during the field work. However, on the beach pocket of the fourth station has been developed an equilibrium profile under a well sheltered condition.